Arabic poetry describes the meeting of the Blue and White Nile as the longest kiss in history. And at the site of this eternal kiss lies the city of Khartoum, the capital of Africa’s largest country, Sudan – a true cultural melting pot where Arabia meets Africa, and home to 597 tribes and 134 languages. The word 'Khartoum’ comes from the Arabic Al-Khurtum, meaning 'Elephants’ trunk’, and from the air, one can see how the shape of the Blue Nile (the trunk) spurs off from the White and main Niles (the face). For some, the name Khartoum conjures up visions of colonial days and the era of adventurers and explorers. For others, Khartoum epitomises the contemporary African city, with one foot in the past and the other in the future. Indeed, Khartoum boasts a plethora of important historical and archaeological attractions, while simultaneously functioning as a modern, industrialised African capital.

On the Southeast side of the convergence of the city’s three rivers lays Old Khartoum, where the Presidential Palace stands on the banks of the Blue Nile near Tuti Island. On the Western side of the White Nile is Omdurman, and on the Northeast side of the Blue Nile is Bahri, or Khartoum North. These three sections, divided by the Nile rivers, are collectively referred to by locals as 'the Three Towns’. Flying over Khartoum, one will be immediately struck by the vast, flat, open desert sands, peppered with traditional mud-brick buildings, contrasting with lush, green oases along the banks of the Nile, teeming with life and cultivation.

Omdurman is perhaps the most exciting neighbourhood for visitors to the city. Here, one can visit the fish souk where the local feluka’s bring in their catch of the day. No trip to Khartoum would be complete without a taste of Nile perch, a huge freshwater fish that can grow to six feet and 140kg with a delicious, delicate taste. There is also the enormous Omdurman Souk, where gold glitters in the sunlight and colourful tobes, the long length of material the local women wear, hang enticingly luring you to buy them. Omdurman also houses the biggest bead market in Sudan. Beads range from the very modern to ancient Roman beads, if you search hard. Unfortunately, some ivory and the odd rhinoceros horn still appear in the souk, and visitors should avoid these illegal items.

In addition to the Omdurman, bead and fish souks, there is a stunning camel market just outside Omdurman, where merchants come to buy and sell the desert animals. The white or paler coloured camels are the most highly prized, and many of the camels wear leather kitabs, talismatic pouches containing prayers to protect to the animals on their long walk to the souk.

Tuti Island, which is situated in the middle of the confluence of rivers, is well worth a visit. Ferries cross regularly back and forth from Old Khartoum, and it’s a haven for farm animals, agricultural crops and wild life. The village is one of the oldest settlements in the area, formed in the late 15th-century, and the Tutians, who migrated from the north, were important in helping spread Islam to the region. Tuti Island is an excellent spot to bird watch, and at certain times of the year one can see Marabou storks, spoonbills and pelicans, not to mention pied kingfishers and waders. Surrounded by water and full of lush nature, the island is the perfect refuge for those looking for a rural escape from the more urban parts of Khartoum. In fact, a former Ambassador’s wife, on a visit to Tuti Island, declared “if you close your eyes you could believe you were in Venice!”

Old Khartoum contains a vast number of cultural and shopping activities. Here, one can find the National Museum, Palace Museum, Souq Arabi and even botanical gardens. If you wander down Blue Nile Street to the Blue Nile Sailing Club on the banks of the Blue Nile you can pay a small entrance charge (about US$0.40) and see Kitchener’s old steel gunboat, the Malik, built in 1898, which is now the Club House. There is a lovely view from here looking over the Blue Nile – relax and enjoy the gentle breeze while taking in the sailing boats, herons and red kites. This serene place is listed in the Lonely Planet Guide, so expect to find travellers from around the world camping in the gardens.

If you like to sail, you can take lessons from experts at the sailing club. It is also possible to get a river barge from here and cruise slowly down the Blue Nile taking in the sights. You will see people fishing, water skiing, swimming, washing and generally enjoying themselves in the water after a hard day’s work.

There are a number of other clubs in Khartoum, including the German Club, Greek Club, Coptic Club, Syrian Club, International Club and more. For these clubs you do need a membership, but if you’re a newcomer to Khartoum and plan on staying for an extended period of time, it is certainly worth checking them out and seeing which suit you. They all do good food and most have swimming pools, tennis courts and other luxuries.

If you want a bit more luxury, try the Hilton Hotel, which overlooks the confluence. One can bask in the relaxed atmosphere on the terrace, where the hotel provides a good bistro menu and live music, and locals and guests drink Arabic coffee and smoke shisha pipes, filled with fragrant strawberry, apple, mint and orange tobacco.

For a more action-packed day in Khartoum, visitors can take a ride on horseback along the banks of the White Nile. What could be more romantic than galloping along an open stretch of beach along the magical river? Karin Toutounji (Tel. 0912374534), an experienced Swiss equestrian, organises rides for around SD5,000 (US$20).

Northern Sudan is governed under Islamic Sharia Law, so don’t expect to find any alcohol in Khartoum. However, most other food stuffs are available, although imported foods tend to be expensive. Fresh fruit and vegetables, although seasonal, are in abundance. In Khartoum 2, south of Khartoum, you will find Cemetery Road, which is full of fruit and vegetable stalls. Be sure to bargain hard for the best prices. There are also a couple of good supermarkets in this area – Sefco and the Amarat Centre Supermarket – which sell a lot of western foodstuffs.

Carrying on along Cemetery Road, one can find Souk al Shabi – 'the people’s souk’. It is a great place to buy gifts like woven baskets, spices and sarongs.

On Airport Road, south of the Blue Nile, there is a new large Turkish shopping mall called Afra Centre. Here you will find ten-pin bowling, a cinema, restaurants and some elite shops; definitely worth a visit.

If you fancy getting out of Khartoum to experience some of Sudan’s unique wildlife, it is possible to arrange camping safaris. Greek guide George Limnios (Tel. 0912359821) happily provides safari advice and organises trips. As with all trips away from Khartoum, it is essential that visitors take their passports, as there are police check-points. If you plan on staying outside of Khartoum, be sure to register with the local police.

Most of the large hotels can arrange transport for a day trip to the pyramids in Meroe. These pyramids were built in 300BC to 300AD (the Meroitic Period) and are smaller than the pyramids of Giza which were built at least 2,000 years earlier during the Old Kingdom of Egypt. Visitors can rent camels and ride around the structures.

Whether visiting on business or for pleasure, Khartoum offers visitors a magical experience, providing sights and experiences culled from its glorious past, while offering all the conveniences of the modern world. The Sudanese people are generous and warm-hearted, and the distinctive sights and wildlife make the city unlike any other place in the world. Like the legendary, eternal kiss of the rivers, the romantic city of Khartoum seems to transcend time.